A question from a reader:
Would Healthy Holly drink raw milk?
Yes, under the right circumstances, Healthy Holly would — and has. It’s delicious, as are raw vegetables, sushi and carpaccio. Do I exclusively drink raw milk? NO. And I would not give it to a young child, my grandmother or anyone with a compromised immune system. In rare cases, raw milk can be deadly. The reason many people drink it is because it is as far on the other side of the spectrum from industrialized feedlot milk as it gets: it’s usually hyper-local, grass-fed, from a single herd feeding on pesticide-free grass and super-fresh. But you don’t have to drink raw milk to get those things.
I drink the best milk available at any given time. How does one determine this? Let’s milk a good/better/best list.
Got Controversy?
Before we get to the good stuff, we should address some of the controversy over dairy: certain studies have linked high milk consumption to prostate cancer, although it’s unclear if the the culprit is the milk itself or the way we raise dairy cows these days (with added growth hormones, etc.). Vegans would prefer we none of us ever drink milk, and the soy, almond, oat, coconut and rice milk industries would love for us to switch our allegiances to their aseptically packaged products.
The first animal product I had after my Vegan Year — the one that finally broke me — was a full-fat yogurt. Huge moment. For the first time in months, I felt satiated, and after a few more weeks of dairy, my lethargy and skin problems abated. Once I discovered milk from grass-fed dairy cows, and especially raw milk from sustainable farms, I finally understood why people want to chug entire glasses of the stuff. It was delicious, and wholly unlike the insipid stuff I’d grown up drinking. (The first time my friend Shannon Hayes made me ice cream from raw grassfed milk from her cows, I nearly made out with her.)
We started drinking cow, goat and sheep milk about ten millenia ago. (When I say “we,” I’m being specific to my ancestry. If you are of Asian or African descent, you’re more likely to be lactose intolerant.) Ten thousand years makes more sense to me than ten years, which is one reason why I don’t reach for the newfangled flavored soy and other milks in the dairy section. Furthermore, milk from grassfed dairy cows has been shown to contain more CLAs (a good fatty acid), vitamins and overall nutrition than that from grain-fed cows, and I find that my body takes to it well, although it’s a good idea for each of us to experiment.
I personally drink milk in moderation, mostly by putting a bit of it in my tea in the morning. I often make my own yogurt, too, and sometimes cheese, so a good milk source is vital. Here’s what I’ve learned to look for in milk:
The Best Choice:
Non-homogenized milk from a local farm where single-herd cows graze on pasture.
Either raw (if the source is pristine, and even then, you’re taking a risk) or low-temperature pasteurized. No added growth hormones.
As we’ve discussed before, cows are meant to eat grass, not grains (which acidify their systems, making them more susceptible to E. coli). They are supposed to graze and follow their natural rhythms, not stay hooked up to milk machines all day. And milk, in its natural state, is not homogenized: the fat separates and rises to make a cream layer. (Skim it off and you have skim milk.)
But these days, we mechanically homogenize the fat globules, forcing them under high pressure to decrease in diameter and blend into the rest of the liquid. Some studies show that this makes the milk more difficult to digest.
We also nuke the heckoutta milk. Raw milk proponents claim that nuking it at ultra-high temperatures (UHT-pasteurized) leads to sterile, “dead” milk. An unappetizing image, but low-temperature pasteurization is fine with me, as I’m more concerned about the cows’ diet and living conditions than whether the milk has been heated. When I can get pristine raw milk, I do so, but when I can’t, I look for grassfed milk from a single-herd farm that hasn’t been nuked beyond recognition.
I have never become sick from raw milk, but I choose my sources with care. If you’re interested in learning more about unpasteurized milk (from an admittedly biased, pro-raw source), check out the Weston A Price foundation. Though a pseudo-scientific propaganda site, they agitate for consumer choice and can help lead you to your very own raw milk pimp. ;) Note that there is just as much persuasive copy written about raw milk as there is about organic and conventional milks: be skeptical; raw milk is not necessarily the panacea some claim it to be.
The Better Choice:
Milk from a single-herd, one that hopefully grazes at least part of the time on pasture. Organic feed, from local farms if possible. No added growth hormones.
Most of the milk you buy at the grocery store — even the organic kind — comes from tanks containing the output of several hundred or even thousands of different cows, all mixed together. I am more comfortable with a single herd because you can track their lifestyle and diet.
This week, I’ve been drinking a local Texas brand that comes from a single herd which feeds largely on pasture and silage. This milk is not certified organic, and there is grain feed, but there are no added growth hormones and the milk is very fresh. Good enough for me.
The Good Choice:
Milk labeled rBGH-free.
Natural hormones are already present in milk, which is one of the reasons I don’t O.D. on it. But rBGH — or Recombinant Bovine Growth Hormone, something that dramatically increases milk output and that is present in most conventional milk — is something one generally wants to avoid. The problem isn’t so much that it’s a genetically engineered copy of a naturally occurring bovine hormone; it’s that it is too much for the cow’s system to handle. Research shows that cows treated with rBGH tend to display, among other effects, an increase in mastitis (udder infection), sores, lacerations and other issues that often then require antibiotics. The USDA says antibiotics can’t be present in milk for sale, but even if high amounts don’t pop up in the milk itself, the overuse of antibiotics in the cattle industry is something we should avoid: it has been linked to the rise in antibiotic-resistent superbugs.
A word about Organics:
Horizon and Aurora Organic (which makes the private-label milk for Costco) have been blasted recently because their cows only had “access” to grass — meaning they pretty much looked longingly at grass from inside their confining milking pens. The requirements for USDA Certified Organic milk were nebulous, which is how those companies still gained the organic seals. But now the government is requiring that Certified Organic milk comes from dairy cows that graze during season, for a minimum of 120 days. Marketing can still be a misleading force, but at least this one loophole is being closed. On paper.
The bottom line? If you can do so, find a local farmer who will sell you milk from grassfed, sustainably raised cattle. When in doubt, grab organic, and when that’s not available, avoid added growth hormones.
Liked this piece? Please share it by clicking below! And consider subscribing to the blog. ;)
Check out yesterday’s post: How to Love Your Body.
I’m submitting this post to the fabulous Real Food Wednesday, generously hosted over at Kelly the Kitchen Kop.

{ 1 trackback }
{ 11 comments… read them below or add one }
Hoping some day soon to find a source of local raw milk. Cows cows everywhere but no one can sell me any milk to drink. Sigh. (I live in a heavily populated Amish area)
Hmmmm…maybe if you don a bonnet?
Have you tried the West Price folks? There might be a local source you haven’t seen.
holly, what is the name of the texas brand you are drinking this week? what do you know about organic valley? the ov milk i buy is from texas cattle, but doubtful single herd. i’m glad to know that (most) organic milk is not completely grain fed, i assumed it was just conventional milk with cows eating organic grains.
Hi, Jenna!
It’s called Promised Land. This is not a brand I would drink on a regular basis, as it is UHT pasteurized, but it’s fine for a week. If I were to move back here, I’d find a local source of grassfed, possibly even raw, milk.
Or, I’d try this one: http://www.pegasusnews.com/news/2010/mar/09/plano-dairy-farm-seeing-increased-demand-raw-milk/
I’ve tried their drinkable yogurts and loved ‘em.
Friends of mine on a budget who live in the south go for Braum’s milk. (Yes, from the ice cream store.) What I don’t like about Braum’s milk is that it seems their dairy cows might be overworked, and it’s unclear as to whether the cows get any real time in the pasture. But, Braum’s owns all their own dairy and meat cows, and they even grow some of their own feed (although they use Nebraska corn that is most likely conventional). Another caveat: they do pasteurize their milk at very high temperatures, which is no bueno in my book, but I do like that they don’t take government subsidies, and that they control the herds and processing themselves.
Perfection is hard to find, unless my friend Shannon Hayes is your neighbor. (Although she won’t sell you raw milk: it’s illegal to do so in New York. Some states allow stores to sell it. Some states let you buy it “for pet consumption” only, and some states make it illegal for anyone to have anything to do with it. I resent a government that allows people to buy cigarettes but doesn’t let them choose what kind of food they put in their bodies, and the whole thing smacks of lobbyists to me.)
Hope this helps.
–Holly
I hate that the government is so against the sale of raw milk – ditto to the cigarettes comment! I’ve worked with Rehoboth Ranch (a local organic farm in Greenville, TX that sells raw goat milk) to sign petitions to legalize the sale of raw milk in places like farmer’s markets, so there is more access to the consumers, but so far, no dice. Unfortunate.
I have purchased Promised Land milk recently. Not bad, but I dunno, it tasted…watery. Braum’s I haven’t had in years, but there is something about their milk. It tastes good. I seem to remember their skim tasting like 2%, their 2% tasting nearly like whole, and their whole milk tasting pretty darn delicious. (Braum’s was my first job as a teenager, I drank lots of milk and ate LOTS of ice cream then!)
I drive by Lucky Layla farms every day coming home from work. And yet it’s been months since I’ve stopped by to buy things from their store. I’ve tried thier yogurt, cheeses, cajeta, everything is always delicious. Definitely need to get me some milk!
Rehoboth is a great, great group. Love their products.
The reason the Braum’s one tastes a bit better is because they tend to evaporate some of the water to concentrate the flavor more. But that’s a bit too much processing for moi. (Take it all the way and you’ve got dulce de leche, which, on the other hand, is one of my favorite things EVAH.)
Wish I’d known about Lucky Layla last week! Drink up for me!
I am SO lucky that I can get good clean raw goat’s milk nearby. It makes the best & yummiest kefir, too. Here in Australia, we can get raw milk if we can find it, track it down;) I used to get raw cow’s milk, but the dairy was a bit dirty, so I moved on. I like the goat milk better, & kefirring it makes it so much better, too.
I am so envious, Anita. It’s very difficult to find clean raw cow’s milk in Miami, and in some states where friends of mine live, such as Maryland, it’s outright illegal. My understanding is that one cannot even buy part of a cow and pay the farmer to milk it for you. Crazy.
We are very lucky in Miami, however, that Hani Khouri makes delicious goat milk cheese and ice cream from his personal herd. Great, great stuff.
Your balanced, informative posts are so helpful. Milk has been the one thing it has taken me a while to come around to with real food. It was all that scary stuff they told us in my nutrition courses about fresh milk when I was in college. Now I’m ready to do the farm-fresh, low-temp pasteurized. (I’ll get to raw eventually.) The problem is I can’t find a source and we just moved to rural KY! The farm I buy my meat from says no one around sells it. I need to do some deeper investigation I think.
So I appreciate your good, better, best suggestions. Right now I’m doing the no-hormone thing. I’ve not done organic because of the reality which you’ve mentioned here, but I am glad to see the changes in USDA policy, if they are inforced.
Thanks, Lori! I’m glad you’re going about this sensibly and moderately, and so glad that you found this helpful. I’ll try to keep it up!
Please stop in and visit our farm. While you’re here, you can even schedule a small tour for a return visit for an inside look. we have grade A raw milk for retail permit (so there’s no need for cow shares). we have a passion for our Guernsey & Jersey cows. Thank you for supporting our dairy farm & lucky Layla farms brand dairy products. We look forward to meeting our neighbors & supporters.