Don’t Soak Your Nuts, Boys.

Down, boys. We’re talking about almonds here.

And boy will we be talking about almonds: I’ve got a recipe for you that turns them into zingers that will punctuate your day with sugar and spice. But first, friends, we have some debunking to do: namely, we must tackle this trend of “soak your nuts — or you’re nuts!”

WHY SOAKING YOUR NUTS TO “INCREASE NUTRITION” IS PROBABLY NOT WORTH YOUR TIME:

As raw-foods diets, vegan diets and traditional or paleo diets become more and more popular, micro food trends continue to proliferate. One oft-repeated claim is that soaking and then dehydrating nuts increases their nutritional bioavailability, that nuts contain “anti-nutrients”, and that we thus consume unsoaked nuts at our peril. One person even claims it’s “toxic” to eat nuts that have not been soaked and processed in this way. Other blogs simply insist that soaking/drying is the proper and traditional way to eat nuts. Their source? Usually each other, or the same one or two books.

It might indeed be traditional in some cultures to process nuts as such. I’m not an anthropologist and have not delved into that part of the claim, as it is the nutritional part I’m concerned about. What is the scientific basis?

At first, I didn’t take the time to suss it out, being inordinately busy with the Healthy Eats Here! project, where we find restaurants serving up grassfed, organic and seasonal food.

A friend swore up and down that she digests almonds better after soaking them. She’s quite compelling when she’s swearing up and down, so I followed suit. Figuring it wouldn’t hurt to do so, I dutifully soaked my almonds and dehydrated them in a low temperature oven. The process does render them crispy and “light” tasting. Unprocessed nuts taste just fine to me, too. The process didn’t seem to make a difference in my digestion, but, from a textural standpoint, I’d still be willing to soak and dry my nuts every once in a while.

But the claim that we consume unsoaked nuts at our nutritional peril?

Balls.

Here’s the gist of the argument:

The Claim
Proponents of soaking claim that nuts contain enzyme inhibitors that keep our digestive enzymes from fully doing their job. (Some proponents go so far as to say that the inhibitors “kill off” your digestive enzymes. Do they have any idea how powerful the pancreatic proteases trypsin and chymotrypsin are?) The immediate extrapolation is twofold: that you will have fewer digestive troubles if you switch to soaked nuts, and that the so-called inhibitors or “toxins” present in nuts will do everything from blocking the absorption of minerals to outright poisoning you. Soaking, these sites say, is the only way to safely consume nuts, as it removes these nefarious so-called “toxins.”

The Claim

Proponents of soaking claim that nuts contain enzyme inhibitors that keep our digestive enzymes from fully doing their job. (Some proponents go so far as to say that the inhibitors “kill off” your digestive enzymes. Do they have any idea how powerful the pancreatic proteases trypsin and chymotrypsin are?) The immediate extrapolation is twofold: that you will have fewer digestive troubles if you switch to soaked nuts, and that the so-called inhibitors or “toxins” present in nuts will do everything from blocking the absorption of minerals to outright poisoning you. Soaking, these sites say, is the only way to safely consume nuts, as it removes these nefarious so-called “toxins.”

The Science
Let’s catch our collective breath here, shall we? There is truth to the claim that there are enzyme inhibitors present in nuts. Most plants contain some form of “Keep Out, Predator!” components. Every body is different and reacts to foods individually. But for most people, ourdigestive enzymes are plenty sufficient to deal with nuts.

The Claim
That the phytic acid in nuts, seeds and grains is WHOLLY, ABSOLUTELY BAD! According to at least one web site, it “can actually rob your body of necessary nutrients” by decreasing absorption of calcium, magnesium, iron, copper and zinc.

The Science
Context, people. Do you live in the Third World on a limited diet where every nutrient (and possible “anti-nutrient”) counts? And how many nuts are we talking about? If you drank a gallon of wine a day, or ate 300 cookies a day, that would probably rob your body of nutrients, too. The phytic acid in nuts and in foods such as oats can indeed inhibit mineral absorption. But — and it’s a big but — we need to look at the claim in context. And to do that, we need to go to primary sources, to peer-reviewed studies, and to the scientists themselves.

The Science

Context, people. Do you live in the Third World on a limited diet where every nutrient (and possible “anti-nutrient”) counts? And how many nuts are we talking about? If you drank a gallon of wine a day, or ate 300 cookies a day, that would probably rob your body of nutrients, too.

The phytic acid in nuts and in foods such as oats can indeed inhibit mineral absorption. But — and it’s a big but — we need to look at the claim in context.

And to do that, we need to go to primary sources, to peer-reviewed studies, and to the scientists themselves.

Give it to me straight.

The Science – Explanation
What is phytic acid?
In plants, phytic acid is a way to store phosphorus. Chemically, phytic acid is the child of something called myo-inositol. Inosital is a member of the B-vitamin club. B-vitamins are essential nutrients. So. B-vitamin member. Essential nutrient. So far, so good.

The Science – Explanation
You haven’t annoyed me yet. Continue.
Inositol is a carbohydrate made up of six carbons. When one of those six carbons hooks up with something called a phosphate group – a group essential for mineralizing bone– the marriage is called an inositol phosphate molecule, or IP1. When two of those six carbons join phosphate groups, you get IP2. And so on. So, when all six of those little inositol carbons grab onto groups of phosphates, the inositol becomes a supercharged IP6, hence its superhero Latin name: inositol hexaphosphate. Which is nothing more than phytic acid. So, phytic acid is made up of good things and, as we’ll find out later, can do some very good things for the body.

The Science – Explanation

You haven’t annoyed me yet. Continue.

Inositol is a carbohydrate made up of six carbons. When one of those six carbons hooks up with something called a phosphate group – a group essential for mineralizing bone– the marriage is called an inositol phosphate molecule, or IP1. When two of those six carbons join phosphate groups, you get IP2. And so on. So, when all six of those little inositol carbons grab onto groups of phosphates, the inositol becomes a supercharged IP6, hence its superhero Latin name: inositol hexaphosphate.

Which is nothing more than phytic acid.

So, phytic acid is made up of good things and, as we’ll find out later, can do some very good things for the body.

The Science – Explanation
But what about mineral absorption? Doesn’t the phytic acid in nuts and grains inhibit it? And isn’t that bad?
If you are a small child growing up in a Third World country on a very limited diet that focused largely on the kinds of grains and seeds we’re talking about here, then yes, phytic acid could pose a problem. Such limited diets are the basis for many forms of malnutrition. But let’s take a bird’s-eye view here and check out calcium, one of the minerals whose absorption phytic acid can affect. According to the National Institutes of Health: (Emphasis mine.) Among the foods high in phytic acid are fiber-containing whole-grain products and wheat bran, beans, seeds, nuts,and soy isolates. The extent to which these compounds affect calcium absorption varies. Research shows, for example, that eating spinach [which contains oxalic acid that, like phytic acid, can bind to calcium] and milk at the same time reduces absorption of the calcium in milk. In contrast, wheat products (with the exception of wheat bran) do not appear to have a negative impact on calcium absorption. For people who eat a variety of foods, these interactions probably have little or no nutritional consequence and, furthermore, are accounted for in the overall calcium DRIs, which take absorption into account. In other words, if you eat a very narrow diet– if you only eat, say, milk and spinach, together, three times a day — then perhaps the phytic acid could contribute to potentially deleterious effects on your health in the long term. But, if you’re only consuming milk with spinach, your health will likely suffer anyway.

The Science – Explanation

But what about mineral absorption? Doesn’t the phytic acid in nuts and grains inhibit it? And isn’t that bad?

If you are a small child growing up in a Third World country on a very limited diet that focused largely on the kinds of grains and seeds we’re talking about here, then yes, phytic acid could pose a problem. Such limited diets are the basis for many forms of malnutrition.

But let’s take a bird’s-eye view here and check out calcium, one of the minerals whose absorption phytic acid can affect. According to the National Institutes of Health: (Emphasis mine.)

Among the foods high in phytic acid are fiber-containing whole-grain products and wheat bran, beans, seeds, nuts,and soy isolates. The extent to which these compounds affect calcium absorption varies. Research shows, for example, that eating spinach [which contains oxalic acid that, like phytic acid, can bind to calcium] and milk at the same time reduces absorption of the calcium in milk. In contrast, wheat products (with the exception of wheat bran) do not appear to have a negative impact on calcium absorption.

For people who eat a variety of foods, these interactions probably have little or no nutritional consequence and, furthermore, are accounted for in the overall calcium DRIs, which take absorption into account.

In other words, if you eat a very narrow diet– if you only eat, say, milk and spinach, together, three times a day — then perhaps the phytic acid could contribute to potentially deleterious effects on your health in the long term. But, if you’re only consuming milk with spinach, your health will likely suffer anyway.

The Science – Explanation
Anything else? Because I’m getting kinda peckish.
Why, yes. Quantity is important, too: if you eat huge amounts of nuts, as some raw foodists do, you might see small effects when it comes to mineral absorption, but even then, the rest of your diet would have to be really narrow and limited for you to see a truly detrimental response. Again, this is more of a problem in developing countries than it is elsewhere. The point: the look and variation of your overall diet is key here. If you eat a few different types of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, seeds, nuts, dairy and high-quality protein, you’re fine. Dr. Ivana Vucenik, a molecular biologist at the University of Maryland’s School of Medicine, attenuated that very idea in an interview published by the American Institute for Cancer Research. “In a normal western diet,” the article quoted Dr. Vucenik as saying, “this [degeneration in overall mineral absorption due to phytic acid consumption] does not happen. Only in areas like India and South America where there is malnutrition and diets low in minerals can phytic acid act negatively if present in very large quantities.” (Emphasis mine.) So, again, you’re fine. Eat those nuts. Don’t feel guilty if you don’t have time to soak. And worry not about the phytic acid.

The Science – Explanation

Anything else? Because I’m getting kinda peckish.

Why, yes.

Quantity is important, too: if you eat huge amounts of nuts, as some raw foodists do, you might see small effects when it comes to mineral absorption, but even then, the rest of your diet would have to be really narrow and limited for you to see a truly detrimental response. Again, this is more of a problem in developing countries than it is elsewhere.

The point: the look and variation of your overall diet is key here. If you eat a few different types of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, seeds, nuts, dairy and high-quality protein, you’re fine. Dr. Ivana Vucenik, a molecular biologist at the University of Maryland’s School of Medicine, attenuated that very idea in an interview published by the American Institute for Cancer Research.

“In a normal western diet,” the article quoted Dr. Vucenik as saying, “this [degeneration in overall mineral absorption due to phytic acid consumption] does not happen. Only in areas like India and South America where there is malnutrition and diets low in minerals can phytic acid act negatively if present in very large quantities.” (Emphasis mine.)

So, again, you’re fine.

Eat those nuts. Don’t feel guilty if you don’t have time to soak. And worry not about the phytic acid.

The Science – Explanation
PHYTIC ACID — CANCER PHYTER?
In fact, someday, you might be thanking nature for phytic acid. An increasing number of studies have suggested that phytic acid is not only not an “anti-nutrient,” but that it has shown an ability to prevent kidney stones and to control blood sugar, cholesterol and triglycerides. It also has shown promise in shrinking tumors and halting abnormal cell proliferation. In other words, phytic acid might be an enzyme inhibitor, but it also shows potential as a cancer inhibitor. The quote I cited from Dr. Vucenik was made in 2003, and in the years since, she and other researchers have been studying phytic acid’s potential for preventing and fighting cancer. I contacted her, and she kindly sent a pdf of one of her most recent papers. The research is pretty stunning. Phytic acid “is a natural antioxidant and neurotransmitter,” she writes, and cites other studies reporting phytic acid’s potential in the prevention and treatment of cancer (especially colon cancer) and heart disease. A high-fiber diet has long been linked to a lower risk of colon cancer, but “it was noticed that only fiber with high [phytic acid] content, such as cereals and legumes, show negative correlation with colon cancer, indicating that it could be [phytic acid] and not [simply] fiber that suppressed colon cancer. Indeed, it has been shown that [phytic acid] is one of the biologically active components of fiber responsible for its anticancer effect.”

The Science – Explanation

PHYTIC ACID — CANCER PHYTER?

In fact, someday, you might be thanking nature for phytic acid. An increasing number of studies have suggested that phytic acid is not only not an “anti-nutrient,” but that it has shown an ability to prevent kidney stones and to control blood sugar, cholesterol and triglycerides. It also has shown promise in shrinking tumors and halting abnormal cell proliferation. In other words, phytic acid might be an enzyme inhibitor, but it also shows potential as a cancer inhibitor.

The quote I cited from Dr. Vucenik was made in 2003, and in the years since, she and other researchers have been studying phytic acid’s potential for preventing and fighting cancer. I contacted her, and she kindly sent a pdf of one of her most recent papers.

The research is pretty stunning. Phytic acid “is a natural antioxidant and neurotransmitter,” she writes, and cites other studies reporting phytic acid’s potential in the prevention and treatment of cancer (especially colon cancer) and heart disease. A high-fiber diet has long been linked to a lower risk of colon cancer, but “it was noticed that only fiber with high [phytic acid] content, such as cereals and legumes, show negative correlation with colon cancer, indicating that it could be [phytic acid] and not [simply] fiber that suppressed colon cancer. Indeed, it has been shown that [phytic acid] is one of the biologically active components of fiber responsible for its anticancer effect.”

The Science – Explanation
Cool.
Yes. Other studies I looked at (some of which were cited in Dr. Vucenik’s report as well) recognized phytic acid’s abilities as a “strong natural antioxidant” that could also help reduce inflammation, especially in the heart. Phytic acid can remove excess iron (important, as too much iron may be linked with colorectal cancer), and has shown tumor-shrinking abilities in the lab. It even shows potential as a substitute for people who cannot tolerate aspirin. Clinical trials are still in the works. But whatever future research will reveal in terms of phytic acid and cancer, we already know that phytic acid, present in nuts, can help with other diseases. You have, no doubt, heard of studies done over the past decade that link daily consumption of small (1.5-3.5 oz) servings of nuts with desirable cholesterol levels and heart health. Those studies tend to have been done with readily available, unsoaked, even conventional (not organic) nuts.

The Science – Explanation

Cool.

Yes.

Other studies I looked at (some of which were cited in Dr. Vucenik’s report as well) recognized phytic acid’s abilities as a “strong natural antioxidant” that could also help reduce inflammation, especially in the heart. Phytic acid can remove excess iron (important, as too much iron may be linked with colorectal cancer), and has shown tumor-shrinking abilities in the lab. It even shows potential as a substitute for people who cannot tolerate aspirin.

Clinical trials are still in the works. But whatever future research will reveal in terms of phytic acid and cancer, we

already know that phytic acid, present in nuts, can help with other diseases.

You have, no doubt, heard of studies done over the past decade that link daily consumption of small (1.5-3.5 oz) servings of nuts with desirable cholesterol levels and heart health.

Those studies tend to have been done with readily available, unsoaked, even conventional (not organic) nuts.

The Science – Explanation
Regular ol’ nuts?
Regular ol’ nuts. Unsoaked. One of those studies recently looked at the Mediterranean diet and suggested that supplementing it with virgin olive oil and/or a variety of nuts decreases certain inflammatory biomarkers associated with cardiovascular disease. So, eat those nuts. One more small point: try to consume your nuts in their whole foods state. A study done in London recently compared consuming two types of muffins: one contained chopped up almonds and the other contained almonds that had been processed and separated into almond flour and almond oil. Eating the almonds in their more whole state seemed to have a more beneficial effect on blood lipids, which are important components in cell membranes that are also used as energy reserves.

The Science – Explanation

Regular ol’ nuts?

Regular ol’ nuts. Unsoaked.

One of those studies recently looked at the Mediterranean diet and suggested that supplementing it with virgin olive oil and/or a variety of nuts decreases certain inflammatory biomarkers associated with cardiovascular disease. So, eat those nuts.

One more small point: try to consume your nuts in their whole foods state. A study done in London recently compared consuming two types of muffins: one contained chopped up almonds and the other contained almonds that had been processed and separated into almond flour and almond oil. Eating the almonds in their more whole state seemed to have a more beneficial effect on blood lipids, which are important components in cell membranes that are also used as energy reserves.

The Science – Explanation
Conclusion?
Whole foods are best. Soak your nuts if you like the taste better, but don’t fret if you like them any other way. Eat them in their natural state — meaning, eat the nuts themselves, not just “nut flour and nut oil” that you see in many processed foods. And don’t eat gobs of them. Or of anything else. (Even though the recipe I’m about to give you is really, really good…) Left: shakti'd nuts. Right: unadulterated. Both: yummy and good for you.

The Science – Explanation

Conclusion?

Whole foods are best. Soak your nuts if you like the taste better, but don’t fret if you like them any other way. Eat them in their natural state — meaning, eat the nuts themselves, not just “nut flour and nut oil” that you see in many processed foods. And don’t eat gobs of them. Or of anything else. (Even though the recipe I’m about to give you is really, really good…)

Left: shakti'd nuts. Right: unadulterated. Both: yummy and good for you.

The Science – Explanation
Sources, please.
Bottom of the page. Happy to update and revise with credible information as it arises. We’ll keep you informed.

Remember this enthusiastic endorsement of those two Boulder artisan food companies that make ambrosial snacks? An update: it turns out that the first company I told you about even produces a chai flavored ice cream! Mercy. I am most grateful to have been ignorant of this little detail last month in Boulder while still within spitting distance of a spoon, a wallet and a vat.

As for the second company, the one that makes those nuts in a variety of playfully named and most agreeable flavors: the news here is that it is still named Olomomo. Which indubitably remains the winning word of the week.Olomomo would be especially fun to chant, 3x fast, while sitting in a half-lotus position next to a bag of their nuts and said vat of Brook’s ice cream.

Those nuts really helped us scale Colorado’s ridges and dunes. So last week, back at sea level (literally) and nostalgic for mountain girl adventures, I thought I’d take a stab at recreating those smashing chai-flavored almonds. And although my versions have not yet reached nirvana status (no doubt because I have not been repeating Olomomo as my mantra), they still satisfy mighty cravings for crunchy, sweet chai flavors.

Chai-flavored almonds.

Inspired by Olomomo Nut Company in Boulder, CO:

Time: 1-2 hours (ten minutes active time)

You’ll need:

Two cups raw organic almonds (or other nuts, if you’d like)

1 Tablespoon cardamom pods or cardamom seeds (Two tablespoons if you really want to pump up the chai factor.)

1 Tablespoon black pepper (omit if you like your nuts sweeter)

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/8 teaspoon-2 teaspoons dried chile flakes, depending on how hot you want the little suckers to burn (omit if you like your nuts sweeter)

1 Tablespoon sugar

1-2 Tablespoon liquid sweetener: maple syrup or honey or agave nectar, depending on what flavor you like best and how sweet you want these to be, plus another 1-2 Tablespoons to add midway through

sprinkling of coarse salt

1) Preheat the oven to 250 F.

2) If you’re using whole cardamom pods, you’ll want to crush them with a mortar and pestle or some other heavy piece of equipment (such as a Dutch oven). It takes two minutes flat, and I think it’s worth it: the flavor’s better than with pre-seeded pods.

Discard the pods and put the seeds into a spice grinder or a coffee grinder that you only use for seasonings. Whirr the cardamom with the black pepper, fennel seeds and chile flakes until they’re fairly finely ground.

3) Dump your almonds into a big bowl. Now add the maple sugar or other liquid sugar. This will ensure that the spices stick to the nuts. Now add your freshly ground spices and the Tablespoon of crystalized sugar (for texture, although you could just add a bit more liquid sweetener, if you’d like).

4) Mix it all together well, then spread the happy little flavor family out in a single layer onto your baking sheet. (I line mine with parchment paper.)

5) Bake for about an hour. N.B. I did soak my almonds the last time I did this, so my cooking/drying time took about two hours, as the almonds were quite wet. Check your almonds after about half an hour. Add a bit more maple syrup or other liquid sweetener if you think they need it. (Mine did.)

Let them cool down before packing them away. I like to keep them in a glass jar in the fridge, but they don’t need to be refrigerated. Will last for a few weeks, although they’ll go quickly.

Enjoy!

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Sources:

Vucenik I and Shamsuddin AM: Protection against cancer by dietary ip6 and inostial. Nutrition and Cancer

Mukuddem-Peterson J, Oosthuzen W and Jerling JC: A systematic review of the effects of nuts on blood lipid profiles in humans. Journal of Nutrition

Berry, S EE, Tydeman E, Lewis H, et al: Manipulation of lipid bioaccessibility of almond seeds influences postprandial lipemia in healthy human subjects. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition

Dietary Supplement Fact Sheet: Calcium. National Institutes of Health

Mena MP, Sacanella E, Vazquez-Agell M, et al: Inhibition of circulating immune cell activation: a molecular antiinflammatory effect of the Mediterranean diet Am Jour Clinical Nutr

Peters U, Sinha R, Chatterjee N, Subar AF, Ziegler RG, etal.:Dietary fibre and colorectal adenoma in a colorectal cancer early detection programme. Lancet

Fergusan LR and Harris PJ: Protection against cancer by wheat brain: role of dietary fibre and phytochemicals. Eur J Cancer PRev

Sasakawa Ni, Sharif M, and Hanley MR: Metabolism and biological activities of inositol pentakisphophates and inositol hexakisphosphate. Biochem Pharmacology

BinghamSA, DayNE, LubenR, FerrariP, SlimaniN, etal.: Dietaryfibre in food and protection against colorectal cancer in the European Prospective Investigation into Cancer and Nutrition (EPIC): an obser- vational study. Lancet

Graf E and Eaton JW: Antioxidant functions of phytic acid. Free Radical Biol Med

Shamsuddin AM, Ullah A, and Chakravarthy A: Inositol and inositol hexaphosphate suppress cell proliferation and tumor formation in CD-1 mice. Carcinogenesis

Jenab M and Thompson LU: Phytic acid in wheat bran affects cell morphology, differentiation and apoptosis. Carcinogenesis

Jariwalla RJ, Sabin R, Lawson S, and Herman ZS: Lowering of serum cholesterol and triglycerides and modulations by dietary phytate. Ja Ppl Nutr

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{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

Michael 02/09/2010 at 3:07 pm: One of those studies recently looked at the Mediterranean diet and suggested that supplementing it with virgin olive oil and/or a variety of nuts decreases certain inflammatory biomarkers associated with cardiovascular disease. So, eat those nuts.

Nice article. Thanks for posting.

I’m not sure I would put much credence in bi0markers for CHD. Biomarkers as traditionally understood simply reflect the type of diet, not the danger of the diet.

Kitavans for example have all the traditional CHD markers of your typical SADer but heart disease is basically non-existent. What is similar is the macro-nutrient composition with the Kitavans getting nearly 70% of their calories from carbohydrates. Seems those markers simply reflect a high-carb diet but are irrelevant if that diet consists of real foods.
Holly Hickman 02/09/2010 at 4:10 pm: Thanks for the input, Michael!
Jenny Baechler 03/27/2010 at 9:28 am: Holy Mackerel! Holly – this article was AMAZING!!! I love how you addressed the claims by checking them out with real science. Not that I had any nut soaking planned, being just a newbie to this world of health, but I feel confident about what I’m learning from you because I have seen a glimpse into how you approach food, hype, science and excellent punnery. Plus double entendres, which are always fun.